The Physical Impact of Soil and Selection on Lodi Zinfandels
SEPTEMBER 21, 2018 | RANDY CAPAROSO
…Finally, Mitch Cosentino – former owner/winemaker of his eponymous Cosentino Winery – has had an even longer history working with Mohr-Fry’s Block 417. Recently over the phone, Mr. Cosentino told us: “I’ve always preferred this particular block for its slightly larger sized berries than the other blocks’. I find that bigger berries give more juicy, jammy ‘stuff’ than smaller berries. These always seem to be the Zinfandels with the purest black cherry fruit component; always in balance, never flat, and well structured.
“Are there differences in Mohr-Fry Zinfandels, between the 1901 and 1940s blocks? Put it this way – in tasting Zinfandels, or Primitivos, in Italy and Croatia, where the grapes are supposed to have come from, I have never found a resemblance between the wines from there and wines in California. My personal opinion is that what you find in vineyards in California are mutations of what originally came from Croatia more than 150 years ago.
“So I’m not surprised to find that the different blocks in Mohr-Fry, evidently planted at different times and maybe for different purposes, exhibit different cluster and berry sizes, even though the blocks are just a few feet away from each other. I used to work with another vineyard not far away, on Scottsdale Rd., which was an inter-planting of vines going back to the early 1900s with vines planted some 50 years later, and you could clearly see the differences in vine, cluster and berry sizes, not to mention taste. Just one more thing that makes Zinfandel a lot more interesting a wine than what many people think!”
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